Arrival

Who knows what time we arrived at our hotel in Toledo? We’d not slept at all on the 11 hour plane ride and yet, when we checked into our room and A hit the sheets, I hit the shoes. After all, we were in Spain and everyone knows Spain produces very fine shoes.

It turns out Toledo shopkeepers aren’t really into shoes. They’re very fond of swords. And marzipan. Every third store sells shoes or marzipan—or both. I have no idea why. But shoes? Not so much.

The Toledo Synagogue

If there hadn’t been a sign out front declaring this building a synagogue, we’d never have guessed it. Indeed, barely a hint of the building’s Jewish past remains.

Built in the 14th century the synagogue was not affected by the many attacks on the ghetto, including the partial destruction of the Jewish quarter in 1391.

In 1492 it became a church, then a hermitage and later, a military headquarters, suffering continuous damage throughout the centuries until it was declared a national monument in 1877 and restored. Today it is a hollow reminder of a tragic past with only a tiny star of David David barely discernible within the intricate wall carvings—to remind us this was ever a synagogue.

Grenada

We were eager to see Granada and the apartment we rented in the Albacyn, so we set off early from Toledo. The landscape on route was breathtaking—mile after mile of sunflowers and olive trees.

In Granada, Miss Daisy (our trusty GPS) went completely loco. She took us through streets so narrow we had to fold in our side mirrors while she was stuck in a “make a U-turn” loop. Meantime, the locals were jumping into doorways and pulling out the rosaries.

Finally we paid a taxi to lead us to the Albacyn—a charming warren of whitewashed townhouses clinging to terrain so steep, it’s perfect for 12-year-old rope climbers and Mountain goats. We could have used pitons to reach it and rappelled down to town.

Magically, a two minute jump into town through a little maze of a market morphed into a 30 minute hike in the other direction. But Grenada did not disappoint. It is graced with a glorious cathedral, lush and lovely flora, and—since so many young people seem to have time on their hands— an inexhaustible supply of marvelous restaurants and cafes.  Day or night, it’s time to party.

And, of course, there is The Alhambra—an extraordinary fortress-turned-palace, it sits on a rocky hill embraced by extravagant gardens, surrounded by thick forest and protected by rugged mountains. Originally built in 899, it was renovated by a Moorish king in the 12th century and even today, its beauty and majesty are staggering. At night, its red stones glow like a perpetually setting sun.